The Chopped Cheese sandwich, also known as “chop cheese,” is an iconic New York dish with roots in Harlem’s bodegas. Its popularity, once limited to local neighborhoods, has now spread across the country, thanks to pop culture, hip-hop shout-outs, and culinary television. Here’s a deep dive into how to make this beloved sandwich and explore its cultural significance.
The Origins of Chopped Cheese
Chopped cheese sandwiches have a relatively recent history. They were first created in East Harlem’s Blue Sky Deli (often referred to as Hajji’s), where the sandwich quickly became a favorite among the local community. While the exact story of its invention varies, many credit Carlos Soto, a longtime employee of the deli, for popularizing it in the 1990s. Some believe that Soto, originally from the Dominican Republic, chopped up the beef to fit on a hoagie roll when hamburger buns were unavailable.
Interestingly, chopped cheese sandwiches are also linked to Yemeni immigrants who worked in bodegas across New York City. The act of chopping beef and vegetables as they cook mirrors techniques used in Yemeni cuisine, such as the dagha yamneeya sandwich. This fusion of culinary traditions reflects the multicultural nature of New York’s food scene.
Chopped Cheese Recipe: A Step-by-Step Guide
Creating a chopped cheese at home is simple and quick. With just a few ingredients and 20 minutes, you can recreate this beloved sandwich from the comfort of your kitchen.
Ingredients:
- 1.5 lbs ground beef (80/20 blend recommended for flavor)
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 4 hoagie rolls or hero rolls
- 8 slices American cheese
- 1 teaspoon salt and pepper
- 2 tablespoons butter
- Iceberg lettuce, shredded
- Tomato slices
- Mayonnaise, ketchup, or other condiments.
Instructions:
Prepare the Beef: Heat a skillet over medium heat and add butter. Once melted, add the chopped onions and sauté until fragrant. Push the onions to one side of the skillet.
Cook the Beef: Place the ground beef in the skillet. Let it cook undisturbed for a few minutes before flipping. Season with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. As the beef cooks, use a spatula to chop it into small pieces, incorporating the onions.
Add Cheese: Once the beef is fully browned, divide it into four portions in the skillet. Place two slices of American cheese on top of each portion, allowing it to melt over the meat.
Toast the Rolls: While the cheese is melting, slice and lightly toast the hoagie rolls. Spread a layer of mayonnaise on each side.
Assemble the Sandwich: Once the cheese is gooey, scoop each portion of beef and cheese into the toasted rolls. Add shredded lettuce, tomato slices, and your favorite condiments.
Serve: Serve the sandwiches warm, ideally with a side of chips or fries.
Cultural Significance
Chopped cheese is more than just a sandwich; it’s a symbol of New York’s working-class culture. Bodegas, the small convenience stores run predominantly by immigrant families, have long been the heart of many NYC neighborhoods. For years, the chopped cheese was a well-kept secret of these bodegas, serving as an affordable and filling meal for locals.
The sandwich started gaining mainstream recognition in the mid-2010s, thanks to mentions from hip-hop artists like Cam’ron and shows like Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown. Bourdain, who had a deep respect for local and underappreciated cuisines, helped bring attention to the sandwich and its roots in Harlem’s Black and Latino communities.
However, as the chopped cheese gained popularity, it became a target for upscale reinterpretations. In 2016, a restaurant in Manhattan’s Upper East Side sparked controversy by offering a gourmet version of the sandwich for $15—nearly three times the price of a bodega chopped cheese. This led to accusations of cultural appropriation, as many felt that the sandwich, a staple in low-income communities, was being gentrified.
Conclusion: A Dish Worth Celebrating
The chopped cheese sandwich is a perfect example of how food can tell the story of a community. Its roots in New York bodegas, its connection to immigrant cultures, and its rise in popularity all speak to the dynamic and ever-evolving food landscape of the city.
Whether enjoyed as a quick meal from a corner store or a homemade treat, chopped cheese remains a beloved symbol of New York, providing sustenance and comfort to many.
For those looking to recreate the taste of New York, this simple yet delicious sandwich offers not just a meal but a bite of the city’s vibrant history.